When starting this install I felt confident in my mechanical knowledge base. From reading manuals, tech articles, and watching many hack jobs on YouTube, I felt this install should take a weekend. Well that was wrong but the project wasn’t all that bad. I started on a Friday night after work, put in hours on the weekend, average of 2hrs every night after work, and finished on a Sunday, putting the grand total at 9 days.
I started by jacking the whole truck up and placing 6 jacks stands underneath and then removing all the wheels. Next it was onto tackle the front lower control arms. While getting everything unbolted was simple, releasing the lower control from the spindle proved patience tester.
After 10 years of grit and grime, the spindle didn’t want to release itself from its molded home. With a little motivation from a ball joint spreader the spindle separated and the lower control could be released. The Silverado’s coil spring didn’t have as much tension on it as what was described to me.
Taking it slowly and be methodical aided in a safe process.
In the front, the spindle was the most challenging part, everything disassembled easily and the install went smooth. The truck still requires an alignment but they way the DJM lower control arm went into place gives confidence that the alignment is somewhat close.
Moving to the rear is where I found some unique challenges.
1. Remove the tow hitch if applicable because the rear leaf spring bolts won’t come out with the hitch in place.
2. You don’t have to remove the fuel take to remove the driver side front leaf bolt.
3. Install the flip kit per the instructions.
4. Install the new front leaf bolts from the opposite direction than factory.
5. Take it slow and don’t rush, be relaxed.
For my application the rear was the most challenging and even required cutting off the exhaust, which sent mixed emotions through my pee sized brain.
As mentioned, a Chilton’s manual and GM will say you have to drop the gas tank to remove the driver side front leaf spring bolt. Again, I will say fuck that. Just cut it off and replace with new as it less of a hassle. I slid the new bolts in from the opposite direction and there is plenty of room for wrenches and clearance from the fuel tank.
Install the rear shackles to the leaf spring raise the leafs into place and install the bolts. I left them all loose so they could pivot for front leaf spring bolts to line up.
To get the front leafs to line up it took two guys due to the pivoting of the rear shackles but once installed the suspension settled nicely with no binding. Also, the instructions say to watch the pinion angle (I removed the driveline to make the install easier) but it wasn’t to drastic of a change, unlike a 4×4.
Following the instructions, the suspension was raised up to the frame. Then we marked the center point on the c-notch and placed it up to the frame for measurements. The c-notches match the frame very well so the confidence level was high that the marks were accurate.
Using a 4″ grinder with a cutting wheel, the c-notches were cut out fast and accurate, little to no finish work was required. Have a steady hand and for a straight line with the wheel. Once the line has some depth to it pressure can be applied. No sense hacking the shit out of the frame.
Install the c-notch bolts, shocks, hitch (if you’re keeping it), grease the zerk fittings on the front end, and mount the tires.